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Old 07-21-2010, 07:28 PM   #1
Johnny1981-C10
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Default Got an Exhaust Question..

I was in the process of pulling for the manifolds to put on my headers and everything was going perfect until i got to this one Manifold Bolt.. it broke inside the head.. we're going to try and drill and extract it this sunday. its the second bolt on the passenger side from the front of the engine.

now my question is... if im not able to get it out, is it going to hurt anything?




On a lighter note of things. i did get me headers painted and the manifolds are off.

any info about that broken bolt would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:47 PM   #2
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I was in the process of pulling for the manifolds to put on my headers and everything was going perfect until i got to this one Manifold Bolt.. it broke inside the head.. we're going to try and drill and extract it this sunday. its the second bolt on the passenger side from the front of the engine.

now my question is... if im not able to get it out, is it going to hurt anything?




On a lighter not of things. i did get me headers painted and the manifolds are off.

any info about that broken bolt would be greatly appreciated.
Was there any bolt sticking past the head surface? If not you could REALLY REALLY use a torch! The best way to remove this bolt is to drill out the bolt with the corresponding easyout (extracting tool).
*****These extracting tools will make or break your efforts here! Get high quality tools for this TRUST me! If you don't a machine shop will charge you about $150.00 bucks to remove the cheaply made carbide steel extracting tool from your head. Been there done that, got the receipts!!!****
After drilling out the bolt shaft. This is important also keep the drill bit cool with oil and as centered as humanly possible. If you get into the threads this cause other problems for you. Once drilled, use your extractor and TAP not beat with a hammer to set your tool! Once your tool is set heat the area with your torch and when the surface is good and hot ( not cherry red or glowing) use your tool and it should come right out. Sorry for the long post but hard to explain this in three words or less.
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:52 PM   #3
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By the way yes you do need this bolt on a Chevy engine. These engines are prone to exhaust leaks as it is. If there were more than these six bolts you would be ok but you have a Chevy. Feel free to message me with any questions you have. I have done thre or four of these extractions over the years of owning these engines. Hope it helps.
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:53 PM   #4
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Was there any bolt sticking past the head surface? If not you could REALLY REALLY use a torch! The best way to remove this bolt is to drill out the bolt with the corresponding easyout (extracting tool).
*****These extracting tools will make or break your efforts here! Get high quality tools for this TRUST me! If you don't a machine shop will charge you about $150.00 bucks to remove the cheaply made carbide steel extracting tool from your head. Been there done that, got the receipts!!!****
After drilling out the bolt shaft. This is important also keep the drill bit cool with oil and as centered as humanly possible. If you get into the threads this cause other problems for you. Once drilled, use your extractor and TAP not beat with a hammer to set your tool! Once your tool is set heat the area with your torch and when the surface is good and hot ( not cherry red or glowing) use your tool and it should come right out. Sorry for the long post but hard to explain this in three words or less.
Thanks for the reply and all the great info!! Unfortanitly , it is broke inside the head.. If i am not able to get it out, is okay not to have that one bolt missing and to go ahead and install my headers? thats more or less what im trying to figure out..
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:16 PM   #5
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OK do this. Go to O'Rielly's and ask for a set of Percy's header gaskets. Mr. Gasket makes a set too but they are not as good. They will most likely be hanging behind the counter on either end of the performance section. OK these gaskets will be aluminum and they are called crush or compression gaskets. When you are looking at these gaskets they will have many layers (ten per side) when you install these on your truck, make sure that you use some kind of thread locker on your bolts. If you don't your forty dollar gaskets will get ruined due to the heat caused by your leak from the missing bolt. I would also recommend the same brand for the collectors and using thread locker also. I used these same gaskets on every Chevy motor I have ever put headers on (ever since I tried using them that is). So yes I have a set on my Blazer right now as we speak. I use the cheapest set of Flow Tech headers I can find. Then put these gaskets on and I will have as good, if not better than a three hundred dollar set. Hope it helps.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:18 PM   #6
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You could run the motor with that one bolt missing, but I wouldn't do it. Not only will you have an exhaust leak, but you will loose some of your back pressure. You will have a popping sound when you get off the gas. and it will blow carbon on everything around it.

If you cant get it with a easy out, the next best thing to do is to step the drill bit up till you have it close to the threads and then chase it with a tap. I have done it several times. you will have to use really good drill bits as the bolts are harden.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:27 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by BAGnDRAG-K5 View Post
OK do this. Go to O'Rielly's and ask for a set of Percy's header gaskets. Mr. Gasket makes a set too but they are not as good. They will most likely be hanging behind the counter on either end of the performance section. OK these gaskets will be aluminum and they are called crush or compression gaskets. When you are looking at these gaskets they will have many layers (ten each) when you install these on your truck, make sure that you use some kind of thread locker on your bolts. If you don't your forty dollar gaskets will get ruined due to the heat caused by your leak from the missing bolt. I would also recommend the same brand for the collectors and using thread locker also. I used these same gaskets on every Chevy motor I have ever put headers on (ever since I tried them that is). So yes I have a set on my Blazer right now as we speak. I use the cheapest set of Flow Tech headers I can find and put these gaskets on will have as good, if not better than a three hundred dollar set. Hope it helps.

Just to make sure i understand you correctly..

with these percy gaskets it should seal as long as i threadlock my new header bolts? Could i not just use lock washers instead? what if doesnt work and i have to take the headers back off? is the threadlocker going to make it harder to get the bolts back off?
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #8
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I wouldn't really use thread locker on header bolts, because it will make it hard to get off. Most people use anti seize and use header lock bolts

I would try to extract it first.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:49 PM   #9
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When I install my headers I will use a bottom tap to clean out the threads in each hole. After that blow them out. This makes removal so much less likely to break a bolt. I use stainless steel bolts and the red Loctite to each bolt. Just a small drop or two not much. You can try the lock washers but they can back out from the heat. Now once you have driven the truck about day or so you need to check the bolts and tighten if needed. If you hear that the exhaust starts to leak you need to make sure that you tighten them ASAP! You should be fine but if you find that this is not working you will need to stop using the truck until you can get he bolt extracted. Great news is these gaskets are reusable! so when you get the bolt out you can put these back on and go.

**** MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE GASKETS **** This will cause them to no longer be reusable.
Hope it helps.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:55 PM   #10
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I wouldn't really use thread locker on header bolts, because it will make it hard to get off. Most people use anti seize and use header lock bolts

I would try to extract it first.
** Yes, I would try to extract it first also.**
I chase the threads first then use air and blow the holes out and I also use stainless bolts. I have been using Loctite for a few years now. The red with the heat causes it to be more like the blue Loctite. I have never had a problem. You just have to clean the holes out every time the bolts are removed.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:55 PM   #11
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I wouldn't really use thread locker on header bolts, because it will make it hard to get off. Most people use anti seize and use header lock bolts

I would try to extract it first.

Sunday me and my buddy are going to try and extract it. if we cant get then when i have the truck towed to the exhaust shop on monday i'll have him get it out. i dont see it being too hard to get out because its above the FOURTH cylinder (second one on the passenger side front the front of the truck).. there is plent of space there to get a drill in there if we have too.. hopefully it doesnt come down to that. and it comes out really easy with the easy-out. thank god its not one of the ones in the back.. besides all the ac stuff.. haha.

thanks for all the comments and help.
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:18 PM   #12
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That sound like the best thing to do. You will notice a lot less headaches later on with that bolt out. Just make sure that you use a tap and clean all the holes out before you go back with new bolts. You already have one that broke, the rest are probably bad too. better safe than sorry right? Good luck!!
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:21 AM   #13
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also wile easy outing and drilling its a good idea to tape the exaust ports off or you will get metal in there
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:22 AM   #14
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Make sure you use a center punch before you drill so you know where your at. If the bolt isn't broken flat, I would try a drimel to try to get it as flat as possible. If not you will have problems getting the drill in the center.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:05 PM   #15
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GOOD NEWS!!

I got both manifolds off today. and that bolt that i thought i broke inside the is NOT inside the head!!

there's just enough room to get a nut on it and weld it!!
that's the best thing i've had happen to me all week.

SO. Wednesday, me and my buddy are going to get it out and bolt up my headers since i dont have a welder.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:51 AM   #16
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You could put the nut on the bolt fragment and pop it with a hammer to losen the siezed section and remove with a small pipe wrench or a pair of pliers. Just a thought.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:15 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Johnny1981-C10 View Post
GOOD NEWS!!

I got both manifolds off today. and that bolt that i thought i broke inside the is NOT inside the head!!

there's just enough room to get a nut on it and weld it!!
that's the best thing i've had happen to me all week.

SO. Wednesday, me and my buddy are going to get it out and bolt up my headers since i dont have a welder.
That's my favorite way. Mig a nut on it and it will come right out while it's still hot.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:23 PM   #18
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That's my favorite way. Mig a nut on it and it will come right out while it's still hot.
His problem is that he does not have access to a welder.
I reccomended a torch to remove the fragment and he does not have one of those either.
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:48 AM   #19
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Well it doesn't matter anymore on how to get it out. i had it towed to the exhaust shop this morning, there going to get the rest of the bolt out. install my headers. and run the new exhaust. for about $500..

its too hot for me to work on it with out a garage.. Ga weather has been horrible... it was 105 in Carrollton, ga where i work yesterday.



I would just like to say THANK YOU so much for everyones advice and help on getting that bolt out. if i had the proper tools that you guys suggested it would of been a snap.. but unfortunately im only 20 and dont have access to stuff like that. So i have to get the professionals to do it... haha. But thank you again for all your guys help.
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:59 AM   #20
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Well it doesn't matter anymore on how to get it out. i had it towed to the exhaust shop this morning, there going to get the rest of the bolt out. install my headers. and run the new exhaust. for about $500..

its too hot for me to work on it with out a garage.. Ga weather has been horrible... it was 105 in Carrollton, ga where i work yesterday.
WOW thats a good price!! Here in Ft. Worth TX these ass holes are proud of thier shit. They wanted to charge me $700.00 for the same thing. Good call tho you will be better off with that bolt out.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:34 AM   #21
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WOW thats a good price!! Here in Ft. Worth TX these ass holes are proud of thier shit. They wanted to charge me $700.00 for the same thing. Good call tho you will be better off with that bolt out.
Do you have full length exhaust? cause mines just dumping right before the rear axle.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:37 AM   #22
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Do you have full length exhaust? cause mines just dumping right before the rear axle.

YEA mine too!!
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